We
decided that our knowledge of European history prevented us from fully
appreciating the grand palaces. Before we go to Versailles, we need to
go spend a day at Museums. We bought two Carte Musee (75FF/each for unlimited
visits to most museums in Paris). We went to Army Museum, Invalides, Rodin
Museum and Museum of History of Paris all in one day.
Visiting
Versailles requires planning. Since there are many different tours (guided
or self-guided) and water fountain shows happening all at once, one needs
to plan ahead. One thing that should not be missed is any one of the guided
tours. Instead of cramming into the over-crowded self-guided tours to see
replica of paintings that we have already seen at the Louvre, the guided
tours are much smaller (20 to 30 people at a time) and the tour guide spoke
English and took us through the not so restored sections of the palace
and explained what palace life was really like.
Outside of the main palace, you can see many many fountains. On Sundays,
such as today, there is extra admission when the fountains ran with music
piped throughout the gardens. This is one of the modern day luxuries that
even Louis XIV did not have.
Further down the Grand Canal, you can find the retreats of Louis XIV
and Marie Antonette, the Grand Trianon and the Petit Trianon. These are
small apartments built so the King and Queen and stay away of the formal
royal rules.
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Chartres is an hour (by local train) from Paris. Train leaves from Gare Montparnasse and travels through the suburbs of Paris stopping at every tiny little town and eventually the scenery gets to be more and more countryside-like. We arrived at Chartres at 12:30pm.
Chartres' attraction is its Notre Dame Cathedral. There is an English-speaking guided tour which is not to be missed. The tour costs 30FF per person and is lead by an English gentlemen who seems to be very knowledgeable of the history of churches and the biblical significance of each piece of architecture as well as the construction process of a gothic cathedral. It turned out that he is really a famous character at Chartres since quite a few friends of mine have heard about him.
There
isn't much to report for this day. We need to go change for more French
Francs and do laundry.
The highlight of the day is picking up an English booked named "Chateaux of Loire Valley" from Shakespaere & Company (along Seine and very close to Notre Dame). This is an "antique" book published in 1930s. I don't suppose the Chateaus have changed much since then.
We
reserved the early morning TGV leaving Paris to St Pierre-de-Corps in Loire
Valley. This is the first time I'm on a TGV and I was very excited. Since
we don't know anything about the train seating system, we just hopped on
and found our seat number and sat down. Then another gentleman came up
and said that we are in his seats. Oh, there's the car (voit) number
as well as the seat number. Oh, well.
The train ride is only an hours, but we are already 180 miles away from Paris. I can't imagine how the Kings and Queens have to endure this long journey. At the TGV train station at St Pierre-des-Corps, we picked up our rental car and drove towards Amboise. We found the Tourist Information center without much problem. However, picking hotels from those deceptive pictures was hard. So we used Peter's antique tour book's help and picked Hotel le France et du Cheval Blanc. This may be the mistake. The hotel is at least 50 years old and has really squeaky floors and noisy toilets and showers...oh well.
It was early enough that we can have lunch and then visited two near
by chateaus, Langaeis and Azay-le-Rideau. Langaeis is one of the oldest
chateau built around the 9th Century. It is small and is more fort like
than palace like. Azay-le-Rideau is more elegant and serene in its design.
It is still fort-like, but it is surrounded by a small lake and has a lot
more garden around it. During the summer nights, many tourist loaded places
in France have Son et Lumiere (Sound and Light) shows. Although
most of them close by the end of August, the end of the French tourist
season, Azay-le-Rideau's show runs through end of September. We stayed
at the Chateau late enough to watch the light and sound show.
After the show, we drove back to Amboise where we stayed. And of course,
we had our obligatory lost and wound up in Tours. Fortunately, we found
our way to the Train station at Tours and got a hold of a really friendly
Hotel near by who gave us good directions on how to get back to Amboise.